It's been gorgeously warm in Mumbai; we were not more than 100 yesterday, but the humidity does put a damper (oh yes) on things. Our party has disbursed as parties do, but the journey continues for all of us. Three back in the states, three still on the opposite side of world along with our doctor who has also moved on. I very much miss my co-travelers, but it is nice to feel the rough and bumpy streets under my sandals as I weave solo through the dust, grit, grime of the unlikely urban garden that is this city.
Parks and stretches of green are all around, yet unlike our cities, the borders are more blurry. Houseplants grow like weeds from cracks in the pavement and street trees stretch their roots desparately and successfully down from upper branches. Planters line the sidewalks seemingly at random. All the while there is a New York buzz of taxi horns, and vendors funnel pedestrians down the sidewalks, stores spilling into stalls, stalls covering sidewalks.
This morning was chill time - slept in, no morning yoga, but my stuffy head and sinuses are much better. Probably still catching up on the sleep missed during our trip. Was going to head out, but got held back when an electrician changed light fixtures in my room. Hotel wanted me to stay for about 10-15 minutes while they worked. Of course it was an hour and a half before I left, but I got to catch up on my neglected journal. Who knew that a 24 hour train ride would be too fun to waste time writing?
After major walkathon and curry lunch (with a fork this time - go Eurostyle diners!), came back to the hotel, did a long slow yoga set, and feel ready to take on a full day tomorrow. Maybe 2 sets tomorrow. Maybe even double-eagle crunches...
Friday, May 28, 2010
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
Do You Leak?
"Don't bend; don't water it down; don't try to make it logical; don't edit your own soul according to the fashions. Rather, follow your most intense obsessions mercilessly."
Sunday night the group hopped onto an overnight train ride heading to Mumbai. We met a family from Mangalore who were so friendly and generous - they offered me their whole plate of food when I asked what it was (normally, of course, I would have accepted but we had just eaten a large feast outside of the train station in Ernakulum) and the kids offered us their chips. Good conversation with new people made the bumpy tracks not-so-bumpy.
I got my wish and took over the sleeper by the window so I could watch India pass by before bed. It was great to look out and see nothing but the moon before falling asleep. Slept fairly well due to the pleasant rocking of the train car. I woke up to the sweet sound of "CHAI. CHAI. CHAI." from the train salesman. I think it was a five am wake up call. They proceeded to walk up and down the train calling out their fare for the rest of our 24 hour ride. It was a great time to chat with everyone, do some reading, journal a bit, watch the scenery change. If you walked to where the cars connect outside, there was a bench you could pull down to watch where the tracks were taking you. This was really peaceful. Although I think we all were ready to get off the train, it really didn't seem like an entire day... but I am still swaying.
We had to transfer trains for another hour or so to get to Mumbai. It was filled with men crowding each other, almost on top of one another (which I've noticed is very common) bustling in and out of the car. Right above our heads was a flyer asking: "When you LAUGH or COUGH or SNEEZE or EXERCISE? DO YOU LEAK?" There was no contact information. This might have been the highlight of the evening...
Today we woke up early to get a tour of the Dharavi Slum in Mumbai which is the largest slum in Asia. It was really interesting, really moving. I don't know if I had much of a real idea about slums before, but it's a whole community in there with workers and families, they even have a school center where they teach kids English and other subjects. We were shown the entire process of recycling plastics and how much hard work each person there really puts in DAILY. And the conditions for living were hard to believe... and yet everyone was smiling. Puts a lot into perspective and leaves me feeling truly grateful for all I have.
It's my last day with the group and after finishing a huge meal of Thali we are off to explore Mumbai. Plane ride to New Delhi tomorrow morning, Agra by night to see the Taj Mahal.
Wishing everyone a happy day, and no leakage!!
:) dani
Sunday night the group hopped onto an overnight train ride heading to Mumbai. We met a family from Mangalore who were so friendly and generous - they offered me their whole plate of food when I asked what it was (normally, of course, I would have accepted but we had just eaten a large feast outside of the train station in Ernakulum) and the kids offered us their chips. Good conversation with new people made the bumpy tracks not-so-bumpy.
I got my wish and took over the sleeper by the window so I could watch India pass by before bed. It was great to look out and see nothing but the moon before falling asleep. Slept fairly well due to the pleasant rocking of the train car. I woke up to the sweet sound of "CHAI. CHAI. CHAI." from the train salesman. I think it was a five am wake up call. They proceeded to walk up and down the train calling out their fare for the rest of our 24 hour ride. It was a great time to chat with everyone, do some reading, journal a bit, watch the scenery change. If you walked to where the cars connect outside, there was a bench you could pull down to watch where the tracks were taking you. This was really peaceful. Although I think we all were ready to get off the train, it really didn't seem like an entire day... but I am still swaying.
We had to transfer trains for another hour or so to get to Mumbai. It was filled with men crowding each other, almost on top of one another (which I've noticed is very common) bustling in and out of the car. Right above our heads was a flyer asking: "When you LAUGH or COUGH or SNEEZE or EXERCISE? DO YOU LEAK?" There was no contact information. This might have been the highlight of the evening...
Today we woke up early to get a tour of the Dharavi Slum in Mumbai which is the largest slum in Asia. It was really interesting, really moving. I don't know if I had much of a real idea about slums before, but it's a whole community in there with workers and families, they even have a school center where they teach kids English and other subjects. We were shown the entire process of recycling plastics and how much hard work each person there really puts in DAILY. And the conditions for living were hard to believe... and yet everyone was smiling. Puts a lot into perspective and leaves me feeling truly grateful for all I have.
It's my last day with the group and after finishing a huge meal of Thali we are off to explore Mumbai. Plane ride to New Delhi tomorrow morning, Agra by night to see the Taj Mahal.
Wishing everyone a happy day, and no leakage!!
:) dani
tid bits from the train ride
"keeping india beautiful, one train ride at a time" = a slogan born out of the lack of trash cans on the train. even well-educated indians just throw their trash, biodegradable, plastic, aluminum, whatever - it all gets chucked out the door on to the tracks, whether it's a city or previously unspoiled countryside.
"squatting in style" - one has the choice of an 'indian style toilet' or a 'western style toilet'. either way, you can't miss the fragrance of indian eau de toilette.
dani got a good seat where she could lie down and peek out the window at the moon. we were in 3-tier a/c coach, so the seats transformed into 3 beds on top of each other - with the rocking motion of the train, pretty cozy all in all. they deliver pillows, sheets, and blankets. indian families and kids ready to chat and share food always make for a homey journey. can't forget our favorite little munchkin, named krishna, a.k.a. butterball.
my favorite part was watching the scenery pass by from the seat between the trains. just a trip to watch the scapes pass by with the wind in your face.
many chai-wallahs were there...the men who carry big canteens of chai and announce their arrival in a distinctive voice: 'chai, chai, chai, chaii'....
julia and dani were on cell phones at the same time - julia to change her ticket to an earlier departure date, and dani to extend. julia's back (and throat among other ailments) have been giving her trouble, and india's not the kindest land at times. so last night she left around midnight, and hopefully by now or very soon she'll be in her comfy home with no more backpacking for a little while. dani, on the other hand, after hearing about how many things there are to do in dharamsala in the north (home of the dalai lama and tibetan refugees, and many chilled out travellers), decided to stay in the motherland for another week.
we landed in mumbai after a 1.5 local train from panvel to the city (after a 24-hour train ride from kerala to panvel), and found our hotel without relative incident, always a blessing.
today we went on a tour of dharavi slum, but those statistics are for another post altogether.
dani and carly head to delhi to see the taj tomorrow morning early; the following day at 11pm lynne and i take off for the east; and tom stays till sunday - he's always happy to meander or see what finds him...but hard to believe that the trip is coming to a close. seems like we've been here for a lot longer than 2 weeks, as the experiences just keep coming...
"squatting in style" - one has the choice of an 'indian style toilet' or a 'western style toilet'. either way, you can't miss the fragrance of indian eau de toilette.
dani got a good seat where she could lie down and peek out the window at the moon. we were in 3-tier a/c coach, so the seats transformed into 3 beds on top of each other - with the rocking motion of the train, pretty cozy all in all. they deliver pillows, sheets, and blankets. indian families and kids ready to chat and share food always make for a homey journey. can't forget our favorite little munchkin, named krishna, a.k.a. butterball.
my favorite part was watching the scenery pass by from the seat between the trains. just a trip to watch the scapes pass by with the wind in your face.
many chai-wallahs were there...the men who carry big canteens of chai and announce their arrival in a distinctive voice: 'chai, chai, chai, chaii'....
julia and dani were on cell phones at the same time - julia to change her ticket to an earlier departure date, and dani to extend. julia's back (and throat among other ailments) have been giving her trouble, and india's not the kindest land at times. so last night she left around midnight, and hopefully by now or very soon she'll be in her comfy home with no more backpacking for a little while. dani, on the other hand, after hearing about how many things there are to do in dharamsala in the north (home of the dalai lama and tibetan refugees, and many chilled out travellers), decided to stay in the motherland for another week.
we landed in mumbai after a 1.5 local train from panvel to the city (after a 24-hour train ride from kerala to panvel), and found our hotel without relative incident, always a blessing.
today we went on a tour of dharavi slum, but those statistics are for another post altogether.
dani and carly head to delhi to see the taj tomorrow morning early; the following day at 11pm lynne and i take off for the east; and tom stays till sunday - he's always happy to meander or see what finds him...but hard to believe that the trip is coming to a close. seems like we've been here for a lot longer than 2 weeks, as the experiences just keep coming...
Sunday, May 23, 2010
24-hour train ride, yes please!
we're just wrapping up our last few hours here in fort cochin - ready to hop another mode of transport to mumbai.
we've been up to so much since the last time we updated - which was on the first day - seems like months ago now!
we spent 3 days at the yoga ashram, observing a schedule of meditation and yoga and silent meals. it was great to have a routine, mix with other travelers, and do yoga twice a day.
after that we proceeded to paradise: the backwaters of kerala, where we stayed in a fancy home with an indian family whose daughters were as charming as they were fun and beautiful. the backwaters [think venice in india] were super mellow - just what the doctor ordered.
we have had some back pain among the group, and multiple ailments seem to dance around julia - throat pain, sinus pain, back pain - but i think she's feeling better today, and she's been a trouper throughout - the whole group is just down for anything, which is nearly a mandatory quality in these parts ;)
after that backwaters we proceeded to fort kochin, which has a strong christian influence and a european feel. we even treated ourselves to coffee and toast yesterday for bfast! we ambled into a little town off the beaten path yesterday, and made friends with the locals, who followed us to the train station and asked us to sign their journals.
today, it's off t mumbai we go!
more details coming sooner, or later!
namaste!
h
we've been up to so much since the last time we updated - which was on the first day - seems like months ago now!
we spent 3 days at the yoga ashram, observing a schedule of meditation and yoga and silent meals. it was great to have a routine, mix with other travelers, and do yoga twice a day.
after that we proceeded to paradise: the backwaters of kerala, where we stayed in a fancy home with an indian family whose daughters were as charming as they were fun and beautiful. the backwaters [think venice in india] were super mellow - just what the doctor ordered.
we have had some back pain among the group, and multiple ailments seem to dance around julia - throat pain, sinus pain, back pain - but i think she's feeling better today, and she's been a trouper throughout - the whole group is just down for anything, which is nearly a mandatory quality in these parts ;)
after that backwaters we proceeded to fort kochin, which has a strong christian influence and a european feel. we even treated ourselves to coffee and toast yesterday for bfast! we ambled into a little town off the beaten path yesterday, and made friends with the locals, who followed us to the train station and asked us to sign their journals.
today, it's off t mumbai we go!
more details coming sooner, or later!
namaste!
h
Ashram, Backwaters, Fort Cochin
"The world will do what it will do."
We have done so much! Arriving at the ashram was an adventure in itself with two bus rides, an in between confusion of which bus was actually the right one for us, a few steep hills climbing in the intense Indian heat, followed by a pleasant rainfall as soon as we reached the top. Timing. There was meditation, yoga, lots of travelers, chai, yummy 'blessed' treats, more meals with your hands, aryuvedic tea, mosquito nets, bonding, struggle as well as enjoyment. There were so many wonderful people to talk with, I am glad we made this short stop which seems like forever ago.
Next, we hopped a train to Allepy - the backwaters - where we stayed right on the water at a beautiful home with a man named Thomas, his wife Lalee, and their two daughters, Ann and Anina. They were so trusting and loving, we all really felt welcome and special attention. The food was beyond filling for each meal. We were quite spoiled by Thomas's mother's cooking, three times a day. Two of the days were spent with a lot of rain, so we spent some down time watching it over the water, seeing flashes in the sky, and hearing strong winds through the windows. It was a much needed relaxation for adjustment to the new surroundings. Our last morning was spent on a 3 hour walk around the backwaters with a whimsical man named Binu. He was so full of life, stopping at every tree, every building, pointing out new fruits and plants to explain about them, make us kazoos out of leaves, necklaces out of stems, and to blow bubbles from plant sap. It was beautiful, all coming together with a meal of puttu (a starchy dish made of shaved coconut and rice flour) and some sort of bean dish that tasted like heaven. And dessert of jaggery (a pure form of sugar) pocked inside of a coconut cake, baked inside of a banana leaf. YUM.
When we left our homestay, we took a canoe across the lake, a ferry to get to the bus station, two busses and a rickshaw and landed in Fort Cochin where we have settled in for the past three nights. Along the way we were caught in a monsoon rain. It felt really nice to experience all seasons in one day (thanks for the heads up Mr. Lueders!). Fort Cochin has had a lot of shopping to offer us, and some time to key into our bargaining skills. I really enjoy making deals with the people here. The key is to walk away and pretend you do not need the item. They almost always adjust their position down to yours. We've been doing some great yoga sessions, had a short visit to a local village where we met a family of several generations playing and laughing at us inquisitively. And the food... I could write an entire blog just about each meal. I don't know how I am going to come back to the states and adjust. Vegetarian meals are the norm which makes eating out SO EASY. We took a cooking class from Thereasa, the owner of our homestay, so I plan to give traditional Kerala food a shot in San Diego.
Today is a 'free day' for us to explore. We will be catching a train tonight for Mumbai. We will be riding for a full 24 hours. The trains we have been on are a little different from what The Darjeeling Limited presents, but with our group of seven it has thus far been a lot of fun. You are even able to stand at the doorway between cars and ride watching India go by. Refreshing.
We have lots left to do on our travels together, and I can't believe two weeks is almost over! I'm sad to part ways with everyone, but am looking forward to my own adventures in Dharamsala and am sure I will meet some great people along the way. I hope everyone is smiling wherever they are!!
Namaste :)
We have done so much! Arriving at the ashram was an adventure in itself with two bus rides, an in between confusion of which bus was actually the right one for us, a few steep hills climbing in the intense Indian heat, followed by a pleasant rainfall as soon as we reached the top. Timing. There was meditation, yoga, lots of travelers, chai, yummy 'blessed' treats, more meals with your hands, aryuvedic tea, mosquito nets, bonding, struggle as well as enjoyment. There were so many wonderful people to talk with, I am glad we made this short stop which seems like forever ago.
Next, we hopped a train to Allepy - the backwaters - where we stayed right on the water at a beautiful home with a man named Thomas, his wife Lalee, and their two daughters, Ann and Anina. They were so trusting and loving, we all really felt welcome and special attention. The food was beyond filling for each meal. We were quite spoiled by Thomas's mother's cooking, three times a day. Two of the days were spent with a lot of rain, so we spent some down time watching it over the water, seeing flashes in the sky, and hearing strong winds through the windows. It was a much needed relaxation for adjustment to the new surroundings. Our last morning was spent on a 3 hour walk around the backwaters with a whimsical man named Binu. He was so full of life, stopping at every tree, every building, pointing out new fruits and plants to explain about them, make us kazoos out of leaves, necklaces out of stems, and to blow bubbles from plant sap. It was beautiful, all coming together with a meal of puttu (a starchy dish made of shaved coconut and rice flour) and some sort of bean dish that tasted like heaven. And dessert of jaggery (a pure form of sugar) pocked inside of a coconut cake, baked inside of a banana leaf. YUM.
When we left our homestay, we took a canoe across the lake, a ferry to get to the bus station, two busses and a rickshaw and landed in Fort Cochin where we have settled in for the past three nights. Along the way we were caught in a monsoon rain. It felt really nice to experience all seasons in one day (thanks for the heads up Mr. Lueders!). Fort Cochin has had a lot of shopping to offer us, and some time to key into our bargaining skills. I really enjoy making deals with the people here. The key is to walk away and pretend you do not need the item. They almost always adjust their position down to yours. We've been doing some great yoga sessions, had a short visit to a local village where we met a family of several generations playing and laughing at us inquisitively. And the food... I could write an entire blog just about each meal. I don't know how I am going to come back to the states and adjust. Vegetarian meals are the norm which makes eating out SO EASY. We took a cooking class from Thereasa, the owner of our homestay, so I plan to give traditional Kerala food a shot in San Diego.
Today is a 'free day' for us to explore. We will be catching a train tonight for Mumbai. We will be riding for a full 24 hours. The trains we have been on are a little different from what The Darjeeling Limited presents, but with our group of seven it has thus far been a lot of fun. You are even able to stand at the doorway between cars and ride watching India go by. Refreshing.
We have lots left to do on our travels together, and I can't believe two weeks is almost over! I'm sad to part ways with everyone, but am looking forward to my own adventures in Dharamsala and am sure I will meet some great people along the way. I hope everyone is smiling wherever they are!!
Namaste :)
Friday, May 21, 2010
who knew that millions of college students were going back to school at the same time we wanted to train it up to mumbai?
not sure where to begin this one. i suppose it started when i created the itinerary for the trip: an overnight train ride to mumbai. a long train ride is essential for the full experience of the motherland, and so when i got here i went to the train station to book our tickets well in advance. but not far enough in advance, as the train station manager jollily laughed in my face. 'oh, all the tickets to mumbai have been booked since 90 days. waiting list? oh yes, 127 people on waiting list.' not what i would label as 'good news'.
he advised me to try for a tatkal ticket. tatkal loosely translates to a 'hail mary' - you go to the ticket counter 2 days before the train that you want, and if you're one of the first people, you can get it. but not one of the first people in line, one of the first people IN INDIA, to get there. he advised going to the train station at 4:30am so we'd be one of the first 8 people in line in order to get the ticket.
dutifully, naveen and i arose at 430 and made our way to the train station in the dark. 35 people sat on the steps of the railway station. it didn't open for another 3 hours. at 7am, one hour before the ticket windows opened, i went to recharge my cell phone, and got a call from naveen: 'heether, come quick! they're giving out tokens for places in line.' got a nice little cardio, and a number: 39.
we went over our plans b, c, and d while waiting. when our numbers were called we plowed through the crowd [a half hour before they opened, i saw someone pull the number 169. hoy.] the first train i requested had a wait list of 17 - still too many to take that chance. just as the irate lady was telling me to shove off, naveen yelled to me to go for the last train on our list - and i did, and we got it! we got confirmed seats on this baby.
which means we get to stay and enjoy cochin, before hopping on a train for 24 hours up to mumbai. the train ride promises to be even more of an adventure than procuring the tickets, or let's at least hope so ;)
he advised me to try for a tatkal ticket. tatkal loosely translates to a 'hail mary' - you go to the ticket counter 2 days before the train that you want, and if you're one of the first people, you can get it. but not one of the first people in line, one of the first people IN INDIA, to get there. he advised going to the train station at 4:30am so we'd be one of the first 8 people in line in order to get the ticket.
dutifully, naveen and i arose at 430 and made our way to the train station in the dark. 35 people sat on the steps of the railway station. it didn't open for another 3 hours. at 7am, one hour before the ticket windows opened, i went to recharge my cell phone, and got a call from naveen: 'heether, come quick! they're giving out tokens for places in line.' got a nice little cardio, and a number: 39.
we went over our plans b, c, and d while waiting. when our numbers were called we plowed through the crowd [a half hour before they opened, i saw someone pull the number 169. hoy.] the first train i requested had a wait list of 17 - still too many to take that chance. just as the irate lady was telling me to shove off, naveen yelled to me to go for the last train on our list - and i did, and we got it! we got confirmed seats on this baby.
which means we get to stay and enjoy cochin, before hopping on a train for 24 hours up to mumbai. the train ride promises to be even more of an adventure than procuring the tickets, or let's at least hope so ;)
Friday, May 14, 2010
clarity
"Clarity can exist only when there is freedom to observe, when one is capable of looking, observing, watching. That is only possible when there is complete, total freedom, otherwise there is always distortion in our observation." - J. Krishnamurti
After a 15 hour flight to Hong Kong, 12 hour layover, 7 hour flight to Mumbai, hour long nap in a hotel, 2 hour flight to Thiruvananthapuram followed by a short nap and shower, I am finally able to allow awareness to take over. Although only being gone for 2 days, I feel it took a great deal longer to get here and I have already met such great people along the way.
My longest flight sat me next to a couple of Indian nationality living in China. The woman and I talked about so many topics ranging from vegetarianism to travel. Her recommendations, warmth and encouragement made me feel at ease at the start of my adventure. She and her husband even saw me off while I explored Hong Kong for the day, ensuring that I was able to find the bus and noting where I should get off and what my options were for the day. The humidity off the plane was striking, and it only became thicker as I crossed Victoria Harbor into Hong Kong City. Met a fellow traveler who had just left Nepal and India, and we explored the interesting buildings and man-made parks with beautiful landscapes. I wandered alone for a couple hours before realizing my jet lag and heading back to the airport.
On my way to Mumbai I met a Bollywood movie producer who was warm and welcoming - a very nice start to entering the heavily populated country. The plane was early, but I arrived 45 minutes late because the plane in front of us couldn't figure out how to back up in order for us to reach the gate. The domestic flight in India offered us a bumpy ride with interesting food my fellow traveler, Julia, and I were a little weary of... but I tried the bread/cakes and the spicy red dipping sauce. It was nothing in comparison to the lunch we had of traditional thali; they bring you a tray with 6 different veggie sides to dip your hands into and mix into your large heaping of rice centered on the tray. In India, you must only use your right hand to eat with because the left hand is considered unclean (reserved for the bathroom) which I thought would be challenging, but the experience was great, I highly suggest it! We finished off our meal with traditional chai. And it is bottomless... for those that know me I'm sure you understand this made me happiest :)
The response and curiosity among the men and women in India cannot be generalized. We have experienced staring, smiles, shoving, laughter, hospitality, and head bobbing. I love this. Whether using words or not, communicating can be done by moving your head from side to side letting the person know you acknowledge them, like them, respect them, understand, don't understand, are curious about them... I can tell I will be using this throughout my trip.
The difference between the excitement before leaving for my long awaited journey and the excitement of being on my adventure are so unique to one another. Although I had dreamed about it I never knew how it would feel to be here, and now that I am I just feel so much joy and gratitude. I am blessed to have the opportunity to be looking, observing, watching in this beautiful and timeless country with so many smiling faces and tradition to learn from.
One more thing - leaving the harbor in Hong Kong, I saw a stroller pass by pushing a very content child in 'Happy Baby' pose. Somehow, this made everything seem 'right' in the world :) I miss you all!
xoxo, dani
After a 15 hour flight to Hong Kong, 12 hour layover, 7 hour flight to Mumbai, hour long nap in a hotel, 2 hour flight to Thiruvananthapuram followed by a short nap and shower, I am finally able to allow awareness to take over. Although only being gone for 2 days, I feel it took a great deal longer to get here and I have already met such great people along the way.
My longest flight sat me next to a couple of Indian nationality living in China. The woman and I talked about so many topics ranging from vegetarianism to travel. Her recommendations, warmth and encouragement made me feel at ease at the start of my adventure. She and her husband even saw me off while I explored Hong Kong for the day, ensuring that I was able to find the bus and noting where I should get off and what my options were for the day. The humidity off the plane was striking, and it only became thicker as I crossed Victoria Harbor into Hong Kong City. Met a fellow traveler who had just left Nepal and India, and we explored the interesting buildings and man-made parks with beautiful landscapes. I wandered alone for a couple hours before realizing my jet lag and heading back to the airport.
On my way to Mumbai I met a Bollywood movie producer who was warm and welcoming - a very nice start to entering the heavily populated country. The plane was early, but I arrived 45 minutes late because the plane in front of us couldn't figure out how to back up in order for us to reach the gate. The domestic flight in India offered us a bumpy ride with interesting food my fellow traveler, Julia, and I were a little weary of... but I tried the bread/cakes and the spicy red dipping sauce. It was nothing in comparison to the lunch we had of traditional thali; they bring you a tray with 6 different veggie sides to dip your hands into and mix into your large heaping of rice centered on the tray. In India, you must only use your right hand to eat with because the left hand is considered unclean (reserved for the bathroom) which I thought would be challenging, but the experience was great, I highly suggest it! We finished off our meal with traditional chai. And it is bottomless... for those that know me I'm sure you understand this made me happiest :)
The response and curiosity among the men and women in India cannot be generalized. We have experienced staring, smiles, shoving, laughter, hospitality, and head bobbing. I love this. Whether using words or not, communicating can be done by moving your head from side to side letting the person know you acknowledge them, like them, respect them, understand, don't understand, are curious about them... I can tell I will be using this throughout my trip.
The difference between the excitement before leaving for my long awaited journey and the excitement of being on my adventure are so unique to one another. Although I had dreamed about it I never knew how it would feel to be here, and now that I am I just feel so much joy and gratitude. I am blessed to have the opportunity to be looking, observing, watching in this beautiful and timeless country with so many smiling faces and tradition to learn from.
One more thing - leaving the harbor in Hong Kong, I saw a stroller pass by pushing a very content child in 'Happy Baby' pose. Somehow, this made everything seem 'right' in the world :) I miss you all!
xoxo, dani
Honk, Honk...you're in India!
Twenty seven hours, four movies, and three airplane meals later...our final flight landed in Trivandrum. After being last to get on the bus from the plane to the terminal, last to go thru immigration check, and practically last to figure out the baggage claim area, Carly and I came out from the airport to find Heather cheerfully waiting for us. The time was 5:00 am local, yet the street in front of the airport was lined with thousands of Indian people waiting for their loved ones to arrive...this included lots of little ones who didn't seem phased by the hour.
Heather had already arranged a nice hotel with A/C, cozy bed and shower for next few nights. I was very excited to rinse off and crawl under the sheets for a clean, quick nap before hitting the busy morning streets.
Dani and Julia arrived a few hours later and the five of us set off for our first Indian meal. I guess I missed the memo that we'd be using our hands as utensils, and it took me several minutes of watching the others until I was ready to dive in to the Thali tray (ayuvedic style meal served with an array of flavors-sweet, sour, pungent, spicy...). In American terms...this meal consisted of a few scoops of white rice, dal, and plenty of interesting condiments...plus a delicious Indian-style fried tortilla-like thing.
There are loads of cars, buses, mopeds on the dirt streets and plenty of people lining them, including us. The honking is constant. There no side walks nor cross walks. Even though leaving my Nike's behind was one of the hardest things I've had to do in a while (such a rough life I live)...I'm certain my opportunities to suit up and go for a jog would be limited in this environment.
The people, the food, the sounds...as Annie sang..."I think I'm gonna like it here!"
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
been a-hoofin'
comin' atcha from...where am i?? oh yeah, fort cochin, kerala.
it's been a whirlwind week in my favorite state of india: kerala a.k.a. God's own country. i've been gallopping south to north from trivandrum (capital city) to allepey (the backwaters of india) to cochin, and taken rickshaws, ferries, local buses, a/c trains, and even a canoe. never a dull moment...although the beautiful laze of the backwaters comes close. last night i slept in allepey outside of town and for once didn't hear a single sound. it was so foreign to me that i felt uncomfortable...for a few minutes...and then i slept better than i have since i got here.
i awoke to joseph (picture the proprietor, a 75-year old man wearing coke-bottle glasses and a blue wrap skirt called a lungi) who was ready to serve me breakfast. the slices of white toast and jam were redeemed in full by the mango juice he brought me. i thought it was a bottled canned version of an indian sugary drink called mazaa, which is delicious, but it turned out to be fresh squozen mango from the very tree under which i sat. wow.
i'll continue on in true allum-poon fashion about the rest of the meals i had to today, as they were flavored by the places i visited. after i left joseph, i headed deeper into the villages of the backwaters to find something a little more authentic. the next place i found was more villagey for sure, but the backwaters tend to be a wealthier part of kerala, which is already a wealthy state. in my quest to find something gritty, i was surprised to find an impeccably clean and beautiful home complete with a flatscreen tv and an adorable 5 year old who spoke better english than most indians i've met!
they served me a thali (indian meal) of rice, salad, banana flower curry with coconut and lentils, and curried potatoes. finished off with banana yogurt with fresh vanilla and cardamom. my palate was in an ecstatic dance.
after a couple of hot sweaty fun bus rides, i landed in cochin, an old fort city which blends india and the west quite tastefully. i was looking for more indian food but happened upon this art gallery / restaurant where i ate a few years ago, and indulged in an omelette with tomato and cheese and wheat bread. it, too, was off the rails.
my fellow adventurers get a taste of india in just over a day! which means that at this moment, they are packing their bags and making any final preparations...mother india and i are ready for them.
and apparently, so is naveen. naveen is our gem of a naturopathic doctor who will be joining our tour. i spoke with him tonight and he's eager to meet everyone and curious about the ashram, so he's asked to join us a few days early. i couldn't be more pleased, and not just because he's an acupuncturist and holistic doctor - he's also a great blend of indian and western cultures, with over a year of experience in u.k.
seems like it's all falling into place quite nicely but mother india always keeps you on your toes... but so far, unfolding so good!
happy days and namaste!
it's been a whirlwind week in my favorite state of india: kerala a.k.a. God's own country. i've been gallopping south to north from trivandrum (capital city) to allepey (the backwaters of india) to cochin, and taken rickshaws, ferries, local buses, a/c trains, and even a canoe. never a dull moment...although the beautiful laze of the backwaters comes close. last night i slept in allepey outside of town and for once didn't hear a single sound. it was so foreign to me that i felt uncomfortable...for a few minutes...and then i slept better than i have since i got here.
i awoke to joseph (picture the proprietor, a 75-year old man wearing coke-bottle glasses and a blue wrap skirt called a lungi) who was ready to serve me breakfast. the slices of white toast and jam were redeemed in full by the mango juice he brought me. i thought it was a bottled canned version of an indian sugary drink called mazaa, which is delicious, but it turned out to be fresh squozen mango from the very tree under which i sat. wow.
i'll continue on in true allum-poon fashion about the rest of the meals i had to today, as they were flavored by the places i visited. after i left joseph, i headed deeper into the villages of the backwaters to find something a little more authentic. the next place i found was more villagey for sure, but the backwaters tend to be a wealthier part of kerala, which is already a wealthy state. in my quest to find something gritty, i was surprised to find an impeccably clean and beautiful home complete with a flatscreen tv and an adorable 5 year old who spoke better english than most indians i've met!
they served me a thali (indian meal) of rice, salad, banana flower curry with coconut and lentils, and curried potatoes. finished off with banana yogurt with fresh vanilla and cardamom. my palate was in an ecstatic dance.
after a couple of hot sweaty fun bus rides, i landed in cochin, an old fort city which blends india and the west quite tastefully. i was looking for more indian food but happened upon this art gallery / restaurant where i ate a few years ago, and indulged in an omelette with tomato and cheese and wheat bread. it, too, was off the rails.
my fellow adventurers get a taste of india in just over a day! which means that at this moment, they are packing their bags and making any final preparations...mother india and i are ready for them.
and apparently, so is naveen. naveen is our gem of a naturopathic doctor who will be joining our tour. i spoke with him tonight and he's eager to meet everyone and curious about the ashram, so he's asked to join us a few days early. i couldn't be more pleased, and not just because he's an acupuncturist and holistic doctor - he's also a great blend of indian and western cultures, with over a year of experience in u.k.
seems like it's all falling into place quite nicely but mother india always keeps you on your toes... but so far, unfolding so good!
happy days and namaste!
Sunday, May 9, 2010
decided to take the train in lieu of a taxi today...as one man asked me, 'is madam taking the train to in downtown?' madam was doing just that. i stood on platform number two, just like the teller told me to, when people started fleeing up the stairs, on to the tracks...everywhere but platform number two. i deduced i had to switch tracks and made my way over to #4. (by the way, the order of the platforms went: 3, 4, 1, 2, 5, 6. naturally.
while i was watching the trains come through, they were spilling out the doors with people, literally. prime groping soil. i had started to prepare and appropriate string of expletives for said situation when i realized that they had ladies only cars. whew!
on that note, i forgot to mention that i had to sign a little contract at the ashram where i'm staying, that being a single lady, i would have no guests in my room. oh, india!
one more tid bit: i saw a girl wearing a t-shirt yesterday that said: "God is my happy hour."
i'm off to hydrate responsibly, check out one more shopping opportunity, and train it back to my air-conditioned room! tomorrow = off to kerala. i'm looking forward to the friendly state. while i've met many kinds folks here in mumbai, it feels a bit like i'm trying to make friends in new york city...
chaalo!
while i was watching the trains come through, they were spilling out the doors with people, literally. prime groping soil. i had started to prepare and appropriate string of expletives for said situation when i realized that they had ladies only cars. whew!
on that note, i forgot to mention that i had to sign a little contract at the ashram where i'm staying, that being a single lady, i would have no guests in my room. oh, india!
one more tid bit: i saw a girl wearing a t-shirt yesterday that said: "God is my happy hour."
i'm off to hydrate responsibly, check out one more shopping opportunity, and train it back to my air-conditioned room! tomorrow = off to kerala. i'm looking forward to the friendly state. while i've met many kinds folks here in mumbai, it feels a bit like i'm trying to make friends in new york city...
chaalo!
Friday, May 7, 2010
I can confirm, India is still India
Greetings friends!
I could think of no better way to spend my thirty-first than on a 15-hour plane ride to India. There was a security issue that kept us sitting on the runway for an extra half hour...which landed me in Mumbai itself well after 10pm, with no hotel reservation. I've been to Mumbai three times now, each time without a hotel reservation...and inevitably I end up wandering around from place to place to find out that they're completely full. I even tried the, "What if you have a guest who made a reservation, and they're not coming?" lol!
I finally ended up in a Hare Krishna ashram (Lonely Planet failed to mention this detail, but I like staying in Ashrams because they're clean and safe), complete with a/c, a dining room table, and hot water! Score!
When I first touched down at the airport, India seemed really sterile to me, but after wandering about last night, India is in fact, still India - vibrant, alive, and permeating India-ness throughout. I saw well over 100 people sleeping on sidewalks last night, including babies - a spring of intense gratitude naturally arises, although these folks aren't necessarily unhappy, unemployed, or feeling like their situation is a plight.
Generally many friendly faces to help shoo me here or there - and I think it's time for my first Indian meal - a feeling of gratitude, again, naturally springs forth.
Also, it's hot. Many beads of sweat are there. Thank God for peppermint oil.
Looking forward to the day, and looking forward to sharing with my buddies in a short week!
Over and out = namaste!
I could think of no better way to spend my thirty-first than on a 15-hour plane ride to India. There was a security issue that kept us sitting on the runway for an extra half hour...which landed me in Mumbai itself well after 10pm, with no hotel reservation. I've been to Mumbai three times now, each time without a hotel reservation...and inevitably I end up wandering around from place to place to find out that they're completely full. I even tried the, "What if you have a guest who made a reservation, and they're not coming?" lol!
I finally ended up in a Hare Krishna ashram (Lonely Planet failed to mention this detail, but I like staying in Ashrams because they're clean and safe), complete with a/c, a dining room table, and hot water! Score!
When I first touched down at the airport, India seemed really sterile to me, but after wandering about last night, India is in fact, still India - vibrant, alive, and permeating India-ness throughout. I saw well over 100 people sleeping on sidewalks last night, including babies - a spring of intense gratitude naturally arises, although these folks aren't necessarily unhappy, unemployed, or feeling like their situation is a plight.
Generally many friendly faces to help shoo me here or there - and I think it's time for my first Indian meal - a feeling of gratitude, again, naturally springs forth.
Also, it's hot. Many beads of sweat are there. Thank God for peppermint oil.
Looking forward to the day, and looking forward to sharing with my buddies in a short week!
Over and out = namaste!
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